Looking for a simple way to build your own DIY faux wood beams?
Wood beams were high on my wish list when we were house hunting. They’re actually pretty common in this area, and I was able to look past the lack of them in this house knowing I could build my own. This is one of those huge bang for your buck projects.
When I searched for faux wood beams online, I found so many awesome options and styles from all over, like this rustic “hand hewn” beam…
The only problem? They were over $400 each! The sizes I needed would have run me nearly $1200. And I’d still have to install them myself and wait 6-8 weeks for delivery. Um, no thanks. Time to DIY.
Jump to:
Materials + tools needed
- Lumber (I used the cheap whitewood from Lowe’s in 1x4x10s, 1x6x10s, and a 1×8 we had to rip down—but you’ll only need two sizes for the top/bottom and sides)
- Nail gun and nails (I used a Bostitch 16ga, but you can also use 18ga)
- Saw to cut your boards to length (love our Dewalt miter saw)
- Drill & long screws
- Wood stain of your choice
- Beam straps (if you have seams, or if you just like the look—read on for more info)
- Wood glue or liquid nails
- A clamp
The size can be whatever you’d like, but I went with 1×6″ boards for the sides and 1×4″s for the top and bottom. For reassurance, I checked online and found this tutorial which is exactly what I had expected.
Feeling confident and prepared, we headed to Lowe’s to stock up on our lumber:
I chose three beams for the layout to cover the seams where the wood planks met—two were identical and 20′ long, and one was 10′ long because it ended at a shorter wall. The total ended up at around $200 including our stain and a box of screws.
How to install a faux wood beam ceiling
1. Attach 1×4’s to the ceiling at your beam locations
The first step was to run the top 1×4″ along the ceiling, screwed into a stud every couple feet. This board had to be solid because it would be supporting the entire beam. We used extra long 4″ screws since it had to go through the 1×4, wood planks, drywall and the stud.
Half of this shorter beam ran along a wall, so we had to line it up with our wood planks and make sure there was enough space (3/4″) to squeeze in the right side board so it would hide the exposed edges you can see in this photo:
For the two longer beams, we had to use two 1x4x10’s since they don’t come in 20′ lengths. We just butted them right up next to each other—this board would be hidden so it didn’t matter.
One board at a time…
Done!
2. Roughen up the wood for a rustic look (optional)
After that was out of the way, it was time to have a little fun.
I wanted these beams to be distressed, so we pulled out a random assortment of tools and banged away.
The stain really picks up every dent & ding and makes them stand out (as you’ll see in just a sec….)
Tip: For a truly authentic look, try my DIY wood aging technique!
3. Assemble beams using 1×6″ and 1×4″ boards
Then came the toughest part: building these things. I enlisted my dad’s help for this—it’s definitely a two person job.
I tried to find the straightest boards I could (always double check them before you buy!) but they’re never perfectly straight, so there was a lot of forcing/persuading to get them to line up.
Update: If I had to do it over, I’d use a higher quality wood like oak, walnut or poplar for straighter boards and a more professional look.
I ran out of wood glue so I ran a bead of liquid nails where the boards met. I held them in place so the edges lined up while my dad used the nail gun to secure them every several inches or as needed.
There were some gaps (a clamp would have been helpful) and it wasn’t perfect, but that’s why I’m all about the rustic/farmhouse style—imperfection is a good thing!
3. Apply a wood stain
We ended up with five beams—(two 10’s combined to make 20′, and one 10′).
Then the stain came out and things got real.
This was my favorite part… watching it come to life with depth and color.
Tip: for a more even finish, use a wood conditioner prior to staining.
4. Install beams
After the first short beam was ready, the boys attempted to hoist it up and install it:
But the sucker wouldn’t budge. They hammered and pushed and shoved, but the gap we left for the right side to slide in was just too small.
So Brad had to cut it away with the jigsaw. It would be completely hidden, so it was all good.
Finally it worked—first beam down! (or should I say up?)
The next four were easier. Luckily this wood is soft and easily pliable, so they could just wiggle the sides in place around the 1×4.
We skipped the liquid nails and used standard 18 gauge finishing nails along the edge.
The beams are pretty light and they aren’t going anywhere.
Then we got to the middle…
I was just going to wait and see how they looked at this point. If the seams fit tightly and everything lined up and it wasn’t too noticeable, I figured I’d just leave it like that.
But there were gaps. It looked fine from far away, but close up, not so much. I had a solution though… we’ll get to that in just a second.
Some boards were extra stubborn and left a gap at the ceiling, so we used a car jack to push it in place while we nailed them in.
Totally worked.
5. Install beam straps to hide the seams (optional)
Now, back to those gaps.
I figured it would happen, so the first thing that came to my mind were beam straps…
To complete the look, I decided to go with a strap on each end along with the two in the center over the seams (so three on each long beam, and two on the short beam for a total of eight).
Most of those online faux beam places sell rubber straps made to look like metal, but I was impatient and cheap and figured I could make my own.
I spotted these metal strips at Lowe’s for $10 a piece and grabbed two:
They were perfect.
First we measured the dimensions of our beams (ours were 5 5/8″ tall and 5″ wide), made marks on the straps and used metal snips to cut them:
With our piece cut to size, we took it into the garage, lined the mark up with the edge of a hard 90º surface, and hammered it into place.
This metal is pretty thin so it bends relatively easy.
Once both bends had been shaped, we drilled a hole into each end using a drill bit so we could secure it to the beams.
Fits like a glove!
Two of the beams ended at a wall, so we only had to make a two sided strap for those:
After all eight straps were prepared (this all took less than an hour), it was time for paint! I used an oil rubbed bronze spray paint.
All dry and ready to mount…
Simple as screwing them into the wood…
Done!
To be honest, I didn’t want to add the straps at first—I thought they would mess up the flow and simplicity of the beams.
But I’ve changed my mind. I love the character it adds.
Would you agree?
How to install faux wood ceiling beams
- Attach 1×4’s to the ceiling at your beam locations
Make sure they are secured to the joists wherever possible
- Roughen up the wood for a rustic look (optional)
Use a variety of tools to distress the surface for a rustic/aged look
- Build 3-sided beams using 1×6″ and 1×4″ boards
For best results, use a higher quality wood (such as oak, walnut or poplar)
- Apply a wood stain
For an even finish, consider using a wood conditioner first
- Install the beams
Nail the beams along the sides of the 1×4
- Install beam straps to hide the seams (optional)
You can DIY your own straps using metal strips from the hardware store
And there you have it—the first finished part of our kitchen! Looking for other ways to add ceiling beams? Check out these posts:
Hopefully this inspires you to get out there and tackle it yourself. It’s one of those things that looks pretty intimidating before you do it, but then when it’s done you’ll want to do your whole house (I’m eyeing you next, living room…)
Kelly says
I am looking at your planked ceiling post and this one and I was wondering how you went about painting your planked ceiling in your kitchen.
Did you use a paint sprayer or brush by hand?
Also, did you have to prime the ceiling before painting?
Thanks!
jennasuedesign says
We did it by hand and didn’t prime but that was a huge mistake! Make sure to use a good primer if you have any knots or tannins that could bleed through.
Amanda says
These look SO amazing!! I was wondering if you had any suggestions for how you decided where to put the beams? My house isn’t the biggest and I’m having a hard time figuring out where to put one of these beauties. 🙂 thanks!!
jennasuedesign says
Hi Amanda! I considered the obstacles (cabinets & lighting) and also the look I was going for — 3 beams were just right. Plus they were able to cover the tongue & groove planks where they ended at around every 8′ so we didn’t have to worry about any seams showing. Hope this helps!
lauren says
Where did the post go? I got here from pinterest, but I can not see anything except the sign up for your newsletter.
jennasuedesign says
Sorry about that Lauren, it’s back up now! Not sure how that happened 🙂
lauren says
Thank you!
This is the best tutorial on the process I have found – and the result is stunning!
cliff says
I want to do a beam coffered ceiling the same way and have been looking at using poly boards instead of actual wood. My concern is the total weight placed on the ceiling. Since you are adding to the weight of the drywall on the joists above, what was the weight of each of the beams?
Anonymous says
Thank you, this is exactly what I was looking for. They look amazing and I love the metal straps!
Anonymous says
One word: STUNNING!
Jenna Sue says
Of course Deb, I would be so honored! Thank you!
Deb Foglia says
Hi Jenna,
This is unbelievable! Pinned and saving this one for a maybe one day project. I wanted to see if you are okay with me featuring this on my blog. I am showing how to add a character to a home featuring blogs that have found amazing ways to accomplish this. I will show a picture along with a link back to your page. my email is dfoglia413@gmail.com
Deb
@Seekinglavenderlane.blogspot.com
Jenna Sue says
Ah, nevermind, it's up now! You're the best Ana! 🙂
Jenna Sue says
Thank you so much Ana, your site is always the first place I look before starting a new project! I don't see the post anywhere on your site—am I missing something? 🙂
Ana White says
This looks amazing, thank you for sharing! Featured on Ana-White.com today!
Jenna Sue says
Thank you! The two longer beams are around 20' long—is that what you meant? They are made from 1×6's and 1×4's (there's more detail/photos in the post if that doesn't answer your question!)
shannon kinna says
Love what youve done & your finished kitchen is amazing!! i have 8 ft ceilings also- can you give me the depth of your beams? thanks so much
Chris Hemsworth says
This looks so cool. Good to see the result of your efforts. But you mentioned in your blog that the size of beam you needed were too costly and at the end you had to install them by yourself.
But Loft Doors offer barn beams that too at very reasonable prices, with quick delivery and installation services
Rebekah Schwind says
I'm so excited to see that your cielings aren't crazy high! I've always wanted beams too, but wasn't sure because of our “standard 8'”ceiling. This is wonderful news!
Ann O'Dea says
Ooh! Ours too. THANKS! Just love it!